So you like the outdoors and have a sense of adventure,
adrenalin and risk. You are looking for something to do during your next period
of annual leave. Everest Base Camp is on your bucket list.
Here are some things to consider before booking.
1.
Choose your
route
Apparently there is more than one way to skin a cat,
similarly there are different trekking routes available. Vie Gokyo Lakes and
Chola Pass is the hardest route and all the more difficult if you go through
the pass on the way up. Although physically more demanding is it the path less
travelled. A quieter path can be much less painful, away from all the loud,
obnoxious and slow tourists.
2.
Catering
|
Markets - Namche Bazaar
source: dftours.com.au |
Trekking in Nepal is not the time to be on a no-carb diet,
regardless of your reasons. Carbs will help with the energy levels and the
altitude, besides that it is really all that is available. Rice, potatoes and
bread. Be warned Nepali bread is not the same the sliced bread you will find in
a suburban western supermarket. Toasted it has the texture of cooked glue. The
rice is carried up on the backs of Sherpas, in baskets, 150kg at a time and the
potatoes are farmed locally using nothing more than hand tools. So although the
food is plentiful consider the pain endured by locals to provide it before you
get too picky and leave large potions uneaten on your plate.
Trekking in the Himalayas is also the time to become
vegetarian. Meat is available, chicken, goat, yak. However the butcher
shops/markets in Kathmadu do not use refrigeration, the carcasses are just
sitting outon wooden slabs ready for purchase with the butchers using their
knives to swat away the flies. That’s in Kathmadu. On the mountain the meat you
eat will have been bought in Kathmandu and then carried up the mountain on the
back of a Sherpa, in a basket, for days at a time.
On the mountain the only thing that changes about the menu
is the colour of the cardboard on which it is printed.
|
Sherpa
source: dftours.com.au |
3.
Amenities
Again keep in mind all of the components making up the
amenities for tourists have been carried up on someone’s back and built or put
in place by hand. The dining rooms, the toilets, the showers the bedrooms
including the beds and mattresses. Lets just describe them as basic. The dining
rooms are reminiscent of a school camp dining hall.
The toilets will vary from a western style toilet with seat
and cistern/bidet that flushes to western toilets that do not flush to a hole
in the ground. Showers
will have as many variants. A bucket of water – with no
guarantees of being hot – may be available to scoop over your head with a small
container. This may be the same container used to scoop water into a toilet by
way of flushing.
The important of toilet facilities will change as your
digestive system cycles through interchanging period of constipation and diarrhoea.
The rooms will be dry and protect occupants from the wind.
They do not have heating. They may be moulding. The mattress might be hard or
soft or lumpy or threadbare. It might even be clean. Regardless of its
condition it will be less painful laying on it than carrying it up the
mountain.
Electricity, running water and heating will all be
controlled by the manager of the property and generally will not be turned on
until the evening, unless specifically requested and paid for by guests. Pay
for it. Considering the exchange rate there is very little pain to the hip
pocket for a substantial gain in comfort.
4.
Up is
exhausting
|
Pumori Mountain, Nepal source: dftours.com.au |
At its most basic there are 15 days of up, across varying
terrain including scrambling up rock falls, tramping through snowfields and
trudging along endless stony paths. The weariness and muscle fatigue create a
battle for the mind just to keep going. The ever thinning air can lead feelings
of being strangled by the planet as your lungs scream for oxygen.
Altitude sickness may also hit, regardless of age, gender,
fitness or previous experience at altitude. Starting with the small but
persistent headache across the back of the head that grows in intensity before
the nausea dizziness and incoherence set in. At its beginning stages, stop and
rest over night before continuing, if it gets worse start heading back down the
mountain.
Drinking a lot of water will help with altitude sickness and
dehydration. Don’t let the colder weather confuse you are your need to constant
fluid. The challenge in drinking at altitude is trying to coordinate inhaling
and swallowing. Simple, right? Wrong. The respiratory system kicks into
overdrive like a dog panting after a game of fetch on a hot day. Basic human
physiology the air and water although travelling at least in part down the same
pipe should not end up in the same place. This coordination does not
necessarily occur automatically resulting in great hilarity for the rest of the
travelling party as a fully grown adult coughs and spits up water.
If you struggle to climb the single flight of stairs at work
it is not recommended that you start improving your fitness in the Himalayas.
Just because you have seen extreme fitness regimes work on shows like The Biggest Loser it is not that easy.
It is also not fair of everyone else you meet on the mountain to have to endure
your whinging. It is also not the guide or porter’s fault that you are not fit
enough or that the mountains are steep and difficult to traverse.
On the upside your utter state of exhaustion helps you
forget that you have not showered and in gore the quality of the mattress.
The promise of spectacular view and the intrinsic sense of
achievement will motivate you to get started again each morning.
5.
Down is worse
Whilst up is exhausting, going down batters the body. The
constant pounding causes blisters, calluses and general swelling to the feet.
Ankles, knees and hips are also in for a battering. Keep in mind 12-18 days up
and 3-5 days down depending on the route.
The longer term recovery required following this trek will
be related to the down. Your lungs will thank you as the air carries increasing
amounts of oxygen.
The promise of getting off the mountain is the only
motivation you will need to pull your boots on each morning despite the intense
and immediate pain.