My apologies from the outset if my writing
is a little slllurred. I am in Porto, the home of port – the fortified wine not
the shipping yard. It appears that any time is the right time for port. It
would be culturally insensitive to be in Porto and not drink port. Like
visiting Champagne and not drinking champagne, Cologne and not wearing some or visiting Adelaide and not eating a pie floater.
Suite entrance |
I
started my time in Porto with two days at a 5-star hotel and spa – I needed to
unwind from all of the stress of this first class holiday. I was upgraded from
a room to a suite, a suite, which was bigger than my Melbourne apartment. It
did not help with my desire to not get lost for at least a couple of days. I am
not used to a space big enough to have two wings. Everything I wanted was
always in the other wing and bathroom breaks needed to be planned ahead. Two
days of massages, spas and saunas… and complimentary port.
The Clerigos church tower was clearly not
designed for modern tourism, Kryal Castle on the other hand was designed not
only to protect Ballarat from the centuries of attacks from Horsham and Bendigo
it also accommodates tourists with babies, backpacks and cameras. Clerigos
barely allows room for a soldier armed with a bow and arrow let alone a machine
gun or a cannon. As a defensive tower it does provide 360o view of
the city, hence the need for room for people wielding cameras.
A glass of port helped to overcome the
disappointment of this tour.
Porto like its bigger cousin, Lisbon seems
to be loose and easy with the offering of marijuana. This might explain why
McDonald’s signs whilst still containing the signature golden arches they are
on a green background instead of the more traditional Ronald’s-hair-red.
Another glass of port helped calm my nerves
after this shock.
I joined a cruise of the Douro river which is really a tour of
Porto’s bridges. Porto loves a bridge even more than Seville. My tour was
crammed full of retirees and the chop of the waves meant that the flap of upprt
arm skin acted as either an effective fan or dangerous slapping machine
depending on how closely one was situated.
The Douro River flows through the Douro wine and port region, one of the
best wine rejeons, and only port resshions in the world.
Porto’s port cellars – listen in Australian
wineries serves only small samples of wine on a wine tour, in Porto the glass is full. Considering port is
a minimumum 20pershent alcohol,
an afternoon spent tasting nine different ports is a fun summer activity. What
is not so fun is negoshiating the
cobblestone streetsh in a hilly regssion down
to a river bank. I still had enough of my wits about me not to order a tasting
of a port left to age since the mid 1800s at $120 a glass.
Cocburn's cellar |
To help soak up the alcohol I went for a local dish, the Francesinha
sandwich. Please note this not a local delicacy as there is nothing delicate
about it. It is a cube of fat and carbohydrates. Start with about 5cm of the
whitest bread you can find – so white that it should not rap and definitely can
not jump. Fill the sandwich with steak, a hot dog sausage or two and some cured
ham. Lightly toast and then cover top to bottom with sliced cheese. Put it back
under the grill to melt the cheese. Serve this with fries and the cover with a
special beer-based gravy. The flavour of this gravy is like Gravox and American
ketchup got together and had a child. The gravy is equally salty as it is
sweet, and very runny.
Francesinha |
Porto was meant to be the location that I
ticked off a fifth continent on my bucket-list item, white-water rafting on
every continent. Unfortunately the rivers in Porto were too low for rafting so
I will have to return to Europe again. The rivers however were the perfect
depth for canyoning. Canyoning is a mix of hiking, rock climbing, swimming,
body surfing, abseiling, cliff jumping and caving; sometimes more than one at a
time. It is a total adrenalin rush and completely exhausting. The parts of my
body that do not ache are completely numb and the parts that are not numb
totally ache.
Ribeira at dusk |
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